Readers of this blog (I’m assuming a plural readership) will know I’m a fan of chardonnay. Sadly there aren’t many good ones to be found under $20 so forgive me for raising my price, by quite a bit as it happens.

Over the last couple of months I’ve encountered three exceptional chardonnays, all of which cost $125 in a Sydney Restaurant. (I know, mad, but I didn’t pay for one, and the other were for a special occasion.) Fortunately, they can be found at wineries or in bottle shops for the less extortionate sum of $50.

The first is Curly Flat, 2012, from Mt Macedon, and I have the sommelier at Mr Wong’s to thank for discovering it. I told him I liked Giaconda and Bannockburn, but both were far too pricey and he said try the Curly Flat. A sniff and a sip and I almost gave the man a hug. It was that good. I’ve since forgotten what it tasted like, only how impressed I was, so here are the official tasting notes, courtesy of the winery.

“Initial scents of sea spray (don’t remember that at all) fresh toast and struck match (sulphur!) fuse with citrus, mainly lemon, lime along with hints of grapefruit (yeah, that rings a bell). Lemon and apple blossom provide ethereal high points (this is like reading a director’s treatment). A nose that merges power with grace, as French oak lends a regal polish to the fruit (actually, I’d agree with that).”

As to the palate…

“The immediately rich, creamy yet finely textured mouth-feel creates a luxurious platform for the lemon zest citrus and fresh cut stone fruits to pulse forward along a wave of glistening cool climate acidity.”

Hurrumphhh. Anyway, someone rated it 97 points and I’d have to agree it’s a very special wine. Very.

The next wine, and meal happened a month later, this time at Jonah’s in Whale Beach, with dear friends Paddy and Mel. We started with a bottle of Taittinger NV – my dear mother’s favourite champagne, and quite possibly mine too.

Then it was time to make some decisions. Like Mr Wong’s the wine list is a formidable one, created with much love and expense, both of which are passed on to the customers.

After a while my eye fell upon a Pouilly Fuisee, which looked like a relatively good buy, as this white burgundy is, to my mind, undervalued.

And it wasn’t your average Pouilly Fuisee either; 2011 Chateau Fuisee, Tete de Cru, a wine made from 20 different cuvees from 40 different parcels. Again, apart from noticing a nice balance between steely-lees and rich fruit and alcohol I can’t remember much detail, so here’s what The Wine Advocate had to say:

“The nose is tightly coiled with subtle leesy aromas infused with acacia and lemon rind. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, the clayey soils lending the power and thrust (what were they doing with the bottle????) on the spice-tinged finish (ah, yes, remember the spice) which retains wonderful elegance.”

We all loved it and asked for another. But we’d drunk the last one so it was an excuse to try a similar price and vintage from closer by.

And that led us to a 2012 Kooyong Faultline, Mornington Peninsula.

Not surprisingly the wine was bigger, fuller, louder and yet quite ‘minerally’ for an Australian chardonnay.

As James Halliday put it, “Fluid (wine usually is) but complex. Smoky and flinty as it flushes pear, apple, chalk and white peach flavour through the palate (yes, they were all there). Style, substance and length.”

The meal ended with a glass of Pedro Ximenez, which can’t have helped my tastebud memory.

It also raised an important question; one of these fine wines vs three lesser? I’d like three of these.