An article in The Economist last year, caught my eye. It was called ‘The War on Terroir’ and as well as being one of the best puns I’ve seen in a while it was excellent reading. Here is a link. It’s about a tech company in Cambridge who has developed a machine that mixes wine to your taste. No need for a sommelier, just press a few buttons and hey presto, you get a wine you actually like.
The tech, called Vinfusion was developed because Poms aren’t too good at ordering wine they like. In a survey of 138 drinkers they found 70% were frequently disappointed by the choices they made in pubs, bars and restaurants. As a result they stuck to what they knew. They tended not to ask for advice, as that would suggest they didn’t know as much as they thought they should.
Of course, the result could suggest that 70% of all wines served in British pubs, bars and restaurants are disappointing.
I can relate to the not asking for advice – it’s like not asking for directions when you’re lost – but imagine all those amazing wines they’re missing out on because they are afraid to try something different.
Perhaps I have low expectations, because most of the time I’m pretty happy with what I get. Here’s what I look for:
Pinot Noir – Only ever buy from Tasmania, Southern Victoria (Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Macedon, Geelong) and NZ. Make sure it’s at least 2 years old. Alcohol between 12.5% and 13.5%. It’s hard to find decent Pinot under $20 so worth paying a tad more.
Chardonnay – Stick to Tasmania, Southern Victoria (as above) and Margaret River. If you can afford Giaconda then add Beechworth. Look at the vintage – there are 2016s out there now which would be very raw, but you can find some 2013 if you delve deep into the bins. Bottle age helps, even with a cap.
Cabernet and Cabernet blends – I’d go Yarra Valley, Coonawarra and Margaret River. Avoid anything over 14%. Again, bottle age is good.
Riesling – Clare Valley and not too young. They can taste sappy.
Sauvignon Blanc – The Marlborough region of NZ is so famous for this that they have really defined the style. Most of the time it’s a style I don’t like – overly herbaceous – but if you like that, stick to NZ. If not, Margaret River.
Shiraz – I’m not a great fan of shiraz. It’s alright for hand to hand combat, but it wouldn’t be my first choice in drinking. That said, most of them deliver on what they say on the bottle.
As to the rest of the world and all those other grape varieties – there are a lot of good Italian wines appearing on wine lists these days. Sicilian ones seem particularly good and I haven’t had a bad Soave yet. France is trickier – so much Burgundy is disappointing unless you’re loaded. Avoid red burgundy and look to the Maconnais for whites, for instance, Pouilly Fuisse.
It’s easier when you’re buying wine from a bottle shop as you can see it in front of you.
I look for a well-designed label, quality glass and paper – if winemakers care about their wine they will put it in something decent.
Ratings – they seem to be everywhere and a suspiciously large number of them come in at over 90, but still worth considering.
Based on this thinking I found myself drinking a 2015 Stonier Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay for lunch. Most of the fruit was fermented and aged for 9 months in French oak barriques (smaller so you get more impact from the oak). Then they add some wine that was fermented and matured in stainless steel. Seems like a sensible way to make a very respectful wine for just under $20 (from Vintage Cellars).