Spring is here, and with it a reminder of the gathering clouds of climate change. If only Hurricane Dorian had destroyed Trump’s Mar a Lago resort instead of the Bahamas.

While not so important in the scheme of things, the wine world will be forever changed by the changing climate. English wines are becoming increasingly good (will Scottish wines be next?) and the French wine industry is sitting on a time bomb. To make that point, and to give the Paris Accord a wonderfully Gallic significance Bordeaux 2050  was launched last year. Made from grapes grown in more arid climes this traditional Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot gave drinkers a taste of the future. By using Tunisian Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from Andalusia and Languedoc, all much hotter, drier areas than the Medoc, they accounted for the extra 2 degrees increase in temperature.

It is, by all accounts, pretty rough. It’s a shame Donald Trump doesn’t drink otherwise we’d have more leverage and I can’t imagine Scott Morrison is that interested in wine either. Hopefully they’ll listen to our children.

But back to present France. I’ve had a couple of lovely fulsome dry whites lately, two of them Chablis and one – ok, so technically three is not a couple – had all the texture and flintiness of one. Sadly, none were under $20.

First up, Chablis Terroir de Chablis from Patrick Piuze which was available for $50 at Nicks (they seem to be out of stock at the moment though). This is what Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate had to say:

“The 2017 Chablis Terroir de Chablis is superb, unfurling in the glass with notes of oyster-shell (why would anyone eat that?)  lemon oil and dried white flowers, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, with bright but ripe acids and a long, mouth-watering finish. It’s derived from two parcels, both north-facing, near Montmains. Drink 2018-2028.”

You can get a lot of great wine for $50, so perhaps the other Chablis, Domain Fevre,  is a better choice for around $40 from my local Castlecrag Cellars. Domain Fevre is a family run winery, madame Fevre, Nathalie makes the wine while monsieur tends the fines. Balance at the centre of everything!

There seem to be a few Fevres in Burgundy and I’ve heard the William Fevre Petit Chablis available at Dan Murphy for under $30 is pretty good too. But to be honest the one I’m going to be buying is the non-Chablis, namely Chateau Maris, Maris blanc, a blend of Viognier, Grenache blanc and Grenache Gris from the Pays d’Oc and organic to boot – “One of the five most environmentally friendly wineries in the World” Wine Spectator, no less.

I reckon this would win in a blind tasting. It’s the baby brother of a more Chablis priced ‘Brama’ which gets 10 months in oak and costs 40 pounds!!! I think it was about $25 at Castlecrag cellars. The red isn’t as good though, I’d stick to the Schurr Cotes De Rhone.

The last month has seen the passing away of two good friends and former colleagues, Brian and Huw, both taken by cancer, both far too young. A reminder to us all to enjoy the years we have.

Your health.