It was a cold, wintery morning. I was in Paris to farewell my beautiful Kirsten who was on her way to Tanzania, on the back of a Bedford truck. It was our last morning together when we stumbled across Willi’s in Rue de Petit Champs. We were paupers, staying in the cheapest of hotels as her money had to last, and I didn’t have any, but we had to have a drink worthy of the occasion. We chose two glasses of Paul Jaboulet Muscat Beaumes de Venise. It was like Thomas Tallis’ Spem in Alium in a glass. I can still remember the heavy intensity of the wine, spreading joy throughout my cold body. Not your usual elevenses – it is a 15% alcohol fortified wine – but I can definitely recommend it. It may not be the best wine I’ve ever had, but it’s definitely the most memorable.

Looking at Willi’s website I discovered that a passion for Rhone wine was the inspiration for the place:

“Our story begins a long, long time ago — in the Rolodex age. It was a time when wine bars in Paris were an unheard of prospect, and Rhône wines were deeply unfashionable.”

Which brings me to some unfashionable Rhone wines available right here in Australia.

I’m not talking about the reds. A bottle of Côtes du Rhone is a rite of passage, stepping up from generic regional to something with a pedigree, the valley is famous for its muscular reds, from the impenetrable, long-lived Hermitage in the north, to the more sumptuous but equally expensive Châteauneuf-du-Papes in the south. Much of Australia’s wine industry is based on Rhone varietals, Grange used to be called Grange Hermitage, being a Shiraz (they call it Syrah) while GSM blends, Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, are increasingly common here. But Rhone whites? Have you ever had one of those?

Most of the regions do a white, but I can only think of two famous ones – Condrieu and Chateau Grillet, both Viognier, both very rare. Both well over $20 a bottle.

However, I have managed to find a white Rhone wine for a little over $20 and it gets a score of 93 from Nicks. They describe Delas, St Esprit Côtes du Rhone thus:

“A blend of 70% Grenache Blanc, 10% Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc and 10% Viognier. Brilliant pale straw colour with a watery hue. Aromas of ripe pears and fresh apricots have a honeysuckle overlay with some following citrus and spice notes. Rich ripe pear, apricot and honeysuckle flavours show plenty of intensity and are underscored by baked apple and spice characters. Well rounded mid palate feel finishing dry and energetic with vibrant acidity and a luscious aftertaste”

It’s one hell of a mouthful; it feels like a nice burgundy but tastes mostly of Viognier to me. A nice change from Chardonnay.

I didn’t get it from Nicks. No, I found it at the best cheese shop on the Northern Beaches – Le Petit Marche in Newport. The proprietor hails from Marseille and gets his wine from the same place as France-Soir in Melbourne. And that place has an amazing wine list.

I imagine Willi’s has had a very quiet year so when we are all travelling again, I’d recommend paying it is a visit. We’ll always have Paris.