I’ve just returned from five weeks in France where my days were structured around two key moments, noon and six pm. I was there to spend some time with my 90 year-old father (who is doing remarkably well, thank you). One reason could be his dedication to these two moments of the day. As the local church bell tolled 12 we would treat ourselves to a glass of white wine. He generally sticks to just the one, but every now and then my one became two, or even three, depending on the wine. When the bells rang six it was time for a small whisky, which would be followed by another glass or two of wine. I got to drink a fair bit.

I think of France as the mother of wine. It may not produce the most (that’s Italy) it may not have been the first place to make it (Iran, though some claim Georgia) but it has had the greatest impact on the wine world. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, these are all French names for what were originally French varieties. They are now planted across the world and those new world plantings have led to a change in the old world.

Red Bordeaux, which used to measure between 12 and 12.5% alcohol now often hits 14%. That’s Chateauneuf du Papes territory, except that famous Rhone wine is now regularly over 15% and boy, do you feel that! Climate change has added to the competition from big, bold Aussie wines and harvest. But the wines that stood out for me were from different areas.

Nicholas Feuilatte Champagnewhat I really liked about this champagne was the price. Just 18 euro (less than $30) for a suitably complex, biscuity NV. If I were a sommelier I’d have this as my house champagne. It is much more interesting than the Pirie I have raved about and better than some more famous houses.

Woflberger Gewurztraminer Grand Cru. LeClerc supermarché has a very good wine buyer, with a nose for wine and a good deal. The Wolfberger is the quintessential Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Rich, warm and lingering it was like a sunset after a hard day. I’m not sure why you’d bother with the likes of Hugel and Trimbach.

Rousette de Savoie Altesse this was under 10 Euro at Intermarché so I thought I’d give it a go. I’m glad I did. I’d never heard of the grape variety (also known as Rousette, confusingly), which is unique to the Savoy region. Imagine the love-child of Chardonnay and Viognier, chalky but full, a fresh wind blowing across an alpine meadow. I’d drink this instead of a cheap (but still more expensive) Chablis.

Chateau Ferrande, Graves. This one comes in at under $20 and for that you get a lot of wine. It has power – 14% as per the trend – but it hasn’t lost its finesse. A good house claret.

Ok, so that’s it for the supermarket wines. I had these next two at Willy’s Wine Bar in Paris (readers will recognise this institution) and I have to thank Manon, their brilliant sommelier for the recommendations. It was so good to find some aged wine at a reasonable price (ok, $100, but that’s pretty good really).

Domaine Fouassier Sancerre We don’t get much red Sancerre downunder and it’s a shame. Made from Pinot Noir it is a lively alternative to Burgundy with firm tannins and plenty of fruit. I only had a glass and was disappointed when it was empty. 

Until I had the Chateau JP Gaussen This was my first Bandol red, hopefully it won’t be my last. A 2012 made from 95% Mourvèdre and 5% Grenache it had many layers, all of them big and welcoming. The wine is definitely more attractive than the label. This was followed by an excellent 2012 Cornas, but I can’t recall whose! By the way, I didn’t drink all this by myself. I had help from an old colleague. Thank you Gebler.

I also managed to get through a few rosé wines while visiting my brother in Germany. We were trying to find the best one under 20 Euro. Brangelina’s Miraval is supposedly good but I found it harsh. The quest continues.

One of my favourite moments of the visit was when I interviewed my father for a forthcoming podcast. Not sure when I’ll have it out, but you can look forward to some interesting stories about Alsace and Chateauneuf du Papes.

A bientôt as they say.